Monday, October 25, 2010

Chanel S/S 2011

"I'm  not interested in the future or the past; now is the interesting time."
-Karl Lagerfeld

In 1954 Karl Lagerfeld was awarded his first prestigious award in the International Wool Secretariat fashion design competition, as winner of the coat category.  It was pivotal moment in 21-year-old from Hamburg's life, and ultimately set the stage for the rest of his career.  Born from a family of wealth,  Lagerfeld displayed an unprecedented work ethic for someone who did not need to work.  In 1959, he left the house of Pierre Balmain to go work for Jean Patou, and by 1962 he was out on his own again, looking for a new direction.  Fortunately, the direction he took was geared toward ready-to-wear, which at the time, was considered much less prestigious and far less glamorous than any position held by a couturier.  His long-time friend, Fernando Sanchez is quoted in Alicia Drake's The Beautiful Fall, by saying that: 
             'He totally grasped the epoch... He knew he wanted to do his own thing and not in some old couture house.  Karl is extremely intelligent, he understood the time.'

On September 15, 1982 Karl Lagerfeld was announced artistic director for the house of Chanel.  It was a position that would allow him to truly compete with the prestige and reputation of haute couture atelier Yves Saint Laurent.  For almost their entire careers the two designers competed in a friendly, yet distant manner, but Yves always seemed to come out one step ahead.  He had his own house, his own identity, and his own fame; while Karl had always worked for the houses, identities, and fame of other designers. Saint Laurent's fame and notoriety was something that no designer at the time could compete with, but then again, there is no fashion legend greater than Coco Chanel.  

Karl Lagerfeld's status at Chanel created an uproar within the high fashion community; many denounced his cultural heritage, and others his anti-haute couture attitude.  So there he was, a German at the top of an intrinsically french empire, and there he stayed.  

Chanel's S/S 2011 resort collection fell nothing short of spectacular this year.  It was saturated with rich earth tones, feather-light fabrics, and Greco-Roman footwear.  While Chanel can often feel like it's geared toward a more mature audience, with its tweed coats and modest hemlines, this collection felt young and lively, yet maintained a classical elegance.  

Of the 87 resort looks, here are a few that I wholeheartedly believe belong in my closet:
All pictures from Vogue.com.  Thanks for reading!

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